Strathfarrer Six

Cris Bonomy and I did this ridge walk yesterday (Monday 31 May). We were at the locked gate at Struy at 8.30 to get our place in the queue and though the gate on the dot of 9.00. We took two cars - left one at the foot of the Coire Mhuillidh (finish of walk) and the other  at the  Allt Toll a Mhuic where we started walking.

We took the same track  as the club weekend outing in March but discovered the path, which we followed then, continues in a gentle ascending traverse across  the corrie headwall below Sgurr na Fearstaig. This looks like an old stalkers path - it has been dug out of the hill. It must have been buried by the snow in March. This time it was clear apart from a short stretch of 10m or so where we had to tip-toe across the remnants of an avalanche. On reaching the  ridge, it was a left turn to Sgorr na Fearstaig which turns out to be a fabulous view point. The air was astonisingly clear and we could pick out Ben Nevis, Skye, Torridon, Loch Maree, Slioch, Fisherfield, An Teallach, Ben Klibreak, Ben Wyvis and the Cairngorms.  Must have been over a hundred miles !

It was then a case of heading east along the ridge (clear path all the way) over Sgorr Fhuar-thuil, Creag Chorm a Bhealaich, Sgorr a Choire Ghlais, Carn nan Gobhar and Sgorr na Ruaidhe - 4 Munros and 2 Munro tops. The N side of the ridge as far as Sgorr a Choire Ghlais is very spectacular - it seemed like you could throw a stone from the path to land in Loch an an Fhur-thuill Mhor, 300m below.  After Sgorr a Choire Ghlais, the character of the walk changes completely into gentle round hills covered in moss.

We got back to the car with about an hour to spare before the gate closed (7pm) so the two cars trick was probably a good move.

Since it was so clear,  this was a unique opportunity to see the extent of remaining snow cover.  Most hills still have the odd patch of snow but the ridges are black and should be fine for walking. The big Glen Affric hills, such as Sgurr nan Ceathreamhan, still have a lot of white stuff - presumably gullies etc where the drifting snow is many metres deep but the ridges are black. Probably OK for walking access though it might be prudent to take an axe in case you have a cross a steep slope of the white stuff. The big exception to this is the Cairngorms  which are still covered in a continuous white layer. It is going to take several weeks yet for this  to melt.

The wire bridge at Steall Meadow is broken

Header says it all really. For more information see

                                               this news item on the John Muir Trust web site

"Topping" Bank Holiday walk !

Still on a Top bagging quest , I decided to aim for 5 Tops on three Munros which did rather result in a sort of "Gavin-esque" type of outing culminating in a route of 34.5k !

One of the Tops, Tom Dubh was described by Irvine Butterfield in his "High Mountains" book as "the most meaningless Top in all Britain", but on a fine day it was a good walk. However after a slow trudge up to the Braeriach summit, my effort was rewarded. Two photos here, one of the cornicing around the An Garbh Coire on Breariach, the other a distant shot of Ben Macdui for those who are planning to go on the Club outing later this month.

After that a fabulous walk to take in my 3 remaining Tops on Sgor Gaoith, all in glorious weather. Truly an outing to remember.

Norman

Summer? What summer ?

I went for a little wander up to the CIC hut this morning. It was more like mid-December than mid-May.  For anyone wondering how much snow there is - the snow starts around 700metres and this area is all N-facing.

I spoke to someone who did Castle Ridge yesterday - the main hazard was giant icicles crashing down, evidently !

Book Review

Scotland's Mountains before the Mountaineers
by Ian Mitchell, Luath Press 1998, Revised edition 2004. ISBN 0-946487-39-1

An excellent little paperback explaining who were the first people to conquer Scotland's mountains and why they did it. Tales of bandits, poachers and illicit distillers, combined with accounts of early map makers, road builders, geologists and others. A vast amount of research has gone into this work, which I would gladly keep as a reference book.

I particularly liked the account of Colonel Colby of the Ordnance Survey (who only had one hand) who pushed his men hard in 1819 whilst surveying large tracts of Scotland. They walked 513 miles in 22 days, took a rest day, and then walked 586 miles in another 22 days, climbing a mountain every other day, all the while measuring and surveying as they went ! )

As an example of what to take with you in 1800 I also liked the story of John Leyden ( who graduated from Edinburgh University at the age of 15) - "Having armed myself this forenoon with a hammer and a bottle of cider, I sallied out alone to ascend the steep lofty mountain of Cruachan Ben ". (He also walked from Oban to do so, and returned on foot the same day !!

The book is crammed full of historic exploits, well worthy of reading, perhaps not all at once but definitely one for the coffee table.

The forecast was good so Jimmy and I went to Glen Affric on Wednesday to do Tom a'Choinich and Toll Creagach. It was a two hour drive from Ballachulish, but they are two hills we've had in our sights for a while now. One thing I like about "munro bagging" is that it gets you to places you might not otherwise go.
We were surprised by the amount of snow left in the corries, now well into May. But the ridge was clear and made a great ascent route over Creag na h-Ingninn. We stopped every so often to catch our breath and admire the views down the snow covered Glen Affric hills.
Then a contrast as we headed over Beallach Toll Easa to the relatively flat, round summit of Toll Creagach. Congratulations were in order - this was Jimmy's 200th munro. In just over six hours we were back at the car having had a another great day out. I think Tom a Choinich may be my favourite hill so far., but I'm looking forward to the next...

On Sunday Norman introduced me to the joys of top bagging. After a 26km walk I admitted that it may not be for me! However we did have a super day. The weather was much improved from

the wintery day we had on Saturday so we set out from Morvich caravan site, acompanied by Norman's wife Kate, with a spring in our step. We had heard tales of Hunter's Pass and decided instead to take the tourist route along the Gleann Choinneachain and up Allt Coire an Sgairne. After a quick bite at the munro summit (my tick) we headed east to Sgurr a Dubh Doire and were rewarded with superb views into Glen Affric and beyond. Then back west past the summit and on to Meall an Fhuarain Mhoir to Norman's second top, and this time views across Kyle to the Cuillins. From here we also watched a lone soul heading off along the western ridge. No doubt this is the direct route back to Morvich, but our already weary legs chose to return by our ascent route. Just over seven hours from when we started we returned, tired but happy, having had a truly wonderful day. Thanks Norman.