Sunday 18 July 2010

Lurg Mhor and Bidein a'Choire Sheasgaich

Seen from the south, at least, Lurg Mhor does not look like a particularly exciting hill - grassy slopes with some crags near the summit. Its fame comes from its inclusion (with Seana Braigh and A'Mhaighdean) in the list of the "most remote" Munros. Because of that it is regarded with some awe and apprehension by many hillwalkers.  The usual route starts from Craig and proceeds by the Pollan Buidhe, then over the Bealach Bhearnais, Beinn Tarsuinn, Bidein a'Choire Sheasgaich to finally reach Lurg Mhor! For all but superhumans, a night out somewhere (in a tent or a bothy) is the only option. We, therefore, took notice when we heard of an alternative route from Attadale  on Loch Carron. This is a little shorter and, significantly, was rumoured to be cycle-able.

Accordingly, Cris, Norman, Ron and Roy gathered at Attadale on a dreich and miserable Saturday morning. The forecast was for the weather to clear up in the afternoon. However, the first thing which met us when we got there, was a large sign, saying the Loch Carron Highland Games, scheduled for that day, had been canceled. Hmm - not encouraging.

Anyway, we set off on our bicycles, along a good tarmac road. For those who don't know it, Attadale is  a very attractive little glen with forestry, holiday cottages and, of course, the Gardens. All very nicely done.  Of course, that did not last. The tarmac ended with the holiday cottages and the track became rougher and  much, much steeper. The climb up to the bealach has some fearsome hairpins which give an idea of what the Bealach na Ba, in Applecross, must have been like before the road engineers got their hands on it. The other side is quite different - a long and relatively gentle run down through a deserted landscape. Finally, two white buildings appear - Bendronaig Lodge. One building is locked and is kept for the Estate but the other is a very well-equipped bothy - it even has a flush toilet (though you have to fill the cistern from the nearby burn with a bucket !)

We abandoned the bicycles a few hundred metres further on at a dodgy river bridge, then walked on to Loch Calavie. From there, it was just (!) a slog up the grassy slopes to the bealach between the two munros and a left and right. For information, the area around the bealach is very confusing in mist - lots of bumps and dips etc so you have to pay attention to your compass. 

The summit of Lurg Mhor is a wide plateau with a large cairn at the far end. Bidein a'Choire Sheasgaich's summit is much more spectacular being gained by a narrow rocky ridge with big drops on both sides. Don't know about the views - completely clagged in when we were there.

Then it was back to the bothy and the long cycle ride back to Attadale with a terrifying descent down the hairpins. The forecast improvement in the weather finally happened and I had a fantastic sunset in front of me for the drive back to Fort William.

If anyone else is interested, it took me just under 2 hours to drive from FW to Attadale. The cycle/walk took us around 10 hours including 2 x 1/2 hour stops in the bothy. We probably lost another hour or so due to burns which were uncrossable raging torrents and dodgy navigation on the way up. So it is still a very long day but no more. Clearly, it is possible to cycle as far as Bendronaig Lodge though you have to get off and push for a fair bit of the way. The surface is pretty rough in places (in fact, most places) - a bike with suspension would definitely be preferable.

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