Friday 9 July 2010

Ruigh Aiteachain Bothy

My grandson, Chris, his dog Lou and I walked the six km from Aclean in Glen Feshie to the bothy on a dry but windy day. I have visited the glen before, but never the bothy. It is in what I consider to be one of the most fantastic Scottish glens I have seen. Caledonian pine forests, with plenty of space, a lovely river and trees allowed to remain where they have fallen.


On the way in, we met a walker who told us that he had come across three men who were going to the bothy. So we knew that we would have company--for the first time, as we had always had previous bothies to ourselves. Coming in sight of the bothy, we could see two, then three, four, five, no six people. Would there be room for us? It is only a small bothy, although we did not know how big or small.

On arrival. there were three men trying to light a stove outside in the wind. Apparently, they had tried it with diesel for the first time in the bothy, and filled the place with smoke and fumes. There were, in fact, eight people there. The other five were a family from Canada, Mother, father and two daughters aged about 11 and 14 years, and their cousin/guide from Scotland. And there was plenty of space for all of us. There are two rooms, one with bunk beds, that had been claimed by the Canadian five, and another with three sleeping platforms and a stove. (By the way, there is also a toilet! It's outside in a small hut, but that's better than most bothies)

Chris (and Lou) and I stayed in the second room with the three walkers, who had come in on foot from Kingussie. And the next day were planning to walk to Ryvoan bothy via Aviemore. They eventually gave up on the diesel for the stove and decided to try to get some petrol from one of the houses on the other side of the River Feshie. Unfortunately, the bridge at Carnachuin has only recently been washed away, so they had to ford the river both ways. But they were successful in obtaining petrol from the estate and also getting the stove working.

The room with the wood burning stove was the obvious place for everyone to congregate, so we did get to socialise. Rowan, the Scottish cousin, took charge of the stove, but encouraged Chris to help. He is a keen bothy visitor and walker, and had persuaded the Canadians, Ken, Catherine, Abbie and Gillian to try the "bothy experience".

The next day, Tuesday, the three men left on their 20 mile (they guessed!) walk, while the family headed for the Munro of Mullach Clach a'Bhlair with Rowan. Chris, Lou and I went to have a look at the remains of the bridge, and then followed the path up towards the Munro, but only for a short way. Back to the bothy for lunch, and then a leisurely wander up the glen. The character of the glen changes further upstream as it becomes narrower and steeper. We came across a previous landslide caused by the extremely fragile rock.

Supper was prepared and eaten, with Lou making friends with anyone who had food, and endearing herself to everyone. Chris was put in charge of the fire by Rowan and told to keep it alight all night, by putting logs on every hour!

Next morning, we awoke (to a cold fire!) and started to pack. Everyone was leaving that day. Rowan had come in by cycle and trailer, carrying an incredible amount of food and coal for the family, and of course, had to the ford the river, and would have to again on the way back.

After tidying up, we made our farewells and walked back in lovely sunshine.

Our thanks to Ken, Catherine, Abbie and Gillian, and Rowan for making our first bothy stay with company so pleasurable. And I think that the bothy experience was a success for them as well, even the two children.

1 comment:

Norman W said...

John, that's a wonderfully descriptive piece, thank you for posting, and I'm glad that you both (and the dog) enjoyed the experience !