Sgor an Lochain Uaine and Cairn Toul

There were two things that affected this walk--the weather which can make a walk wonderful and magical with awe-inspiring views, breezes to keep you cool and the midges at bay, but this was not one of those; and time. When I left Oban, I thought that the road at Barcaldine, north of Oban, was to be closed for road-works at 10pm, but on crossing Connel Bridge, an electronic sign informed me that it was to close at 9pm. One hour less to do a long and high walk. My brain tried to calculate distances and times, but I was already on my way, so I just had to go for it.
Left the car at Achlean in Glen Feshie at about 9.40am, with the weather not too bad--dry, but with low cloud and a fairly strong wind. The walk was uneventful until the crossing of the Allt Sgairnich, where I met another walker. He had camped the previous night, was heading for Monadh Mor, and was planning to camp again that night. I commented that the cloud had risen in front of me as I climbed on to the plateau, and hoped it would continue.
We separated and I passed Loch nan Cnapan with no view of the hills I was aiming for. The cloud did not continue to rise, but in fact came lower, and with it the rain and wind.
I set my compass and headed for the foot of the first hill. The going was hard, with boggy patches, and where there wern't boggy patches, it was bouldery, (and all the time, wondering if I had enough time to complete the walk). Ascending Sgor an Lochan Uaine, the boulders became bigger and more often, the rain and wind wetter and stronger. GPS came into its own, and I made it to the summit cairn. There was a slight lull in the wind, and I was able to take a look over the edge of the cliffs to try and see the lochan. Cloud and more cloud. So, another bearing and down to the col before climbing Cairn Toul. More and bigger boulders, stronger wind and rain. ( and still checking the time--not enough to stop for a break). The shelter cairn at the summit came just in time, and I had to take a short break for a drink, but no food.
Compass and map again, then out into the weather. More boulders (downhill and harder), gale-force winds and rain, and 10 metres of visibility. I was walking into the wind now, heading west. Boulders, boulders, boulders, wind, wind, wind. This was not fun. Still heading west, the cloud cleared for a moment and I could see a spectacular glen to my left that I had not seen before. Where was that? Am I on the correct bearing? Out with the map-it must be Glen Geusachan (?) The doubt lingered, but I had to carry on.
Eventually, the boulders ran out, but the wind and rain did not. Again, a break in the cloud, and I could see steep cliffs in front of me--Glen Einich? (how's the time going?) Still not able to stop for a break. Then Loch nan Cnapan, and confidence returned. Crossed the burn (no problem, even with all the rain), and on to the track. Then something rather strange. I was out of the wind for the first time in a while, and my brain became disoriented, like being drunk but without the pleasure. It did not last long, as I was straight back into the wind again.
The just ahead of me, two walkers appeared out of the mist, going the same way (two more idiots out in this weather!). But I did not have the energy to catch them up, and they turned off towards Carn Ban Mor. The wind was still battering me, the rain was off and on and the cloud was still down, but I was nearing home! The wind did not stop until I entered the forest, and was I relieved.
Back at the car, I decided that I had better head for home immediately, so put the sandwiches on the passenger seat to eat on the way.
At Duror, there was a sign "Road ahead closed", but it was too early! I carried on, but again at Appin, another sign "Road ahead closed"!
I reached Barcaldine at 8.35pm, and the road was open! Yippee!!
In retrospect, it was not too bad a walk--objective achieved (two Munros climbed), navigation worked out successfully and I completed a long, hard walk in a reasonable time--but I hope that I never have to do it again!